3D Printing : (the famous) Ikea Lack enclosure for Ender 3 Pro



Background

There are a lot of article on the Internet about this topic. How to "turn Ikea Lack tables to 3D printing enclosure?" This is a trending topic. But to be honest, I never find the one that takes your by hand from start to beginning. This is the challenge of this post and I really hope you will like it !

Let's go !

First, you need a minimum of two Lack tables from your local Ikea store. It works perfectly with three if you want a higher construction. For me two pieces are the ideal size since it will be on my desk. But if you want to have the furniture laying on the ground, three is indeed a better choice.

Non printable parts (it means you need to buy them)
  • Ikea Lack table (2x);
  • Magnets for the doors (4x);
  • Smoke detector;
  • Power cable extension (from eBay);
  • (optional) Ikea Ledberg LED strip to bring some lights in the enclosure while printing;
  • (optional) shock absorbing carpet;
  • (optional) Thermal sensor (from Amazon)
Printable parts (it means you will used your own factory!)

This is the most trickiest part actually. Finding the right parts for you, there are a lot of options on thingiverse.com and this is the problem : way too many options. So, after few month of searching and reading blogs and forum, I came across this design : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3598219. This is one is a modified version of a Prusa enclosure based on this blog.

So, we need the following : 
Be aware that the printing time for the above will take few days. It took me 6 days with high resolution and high infill. I used 30% infill which is quite high, you may go to 15% if you are in a hurry. I was not ready to redo this build so I went the safe route.

Little note before we move on : You may ask yourself the following questions : Why on earth should I need an enclosure - beside the fact that this is a neat setup, this is a mandatory setup if you aim at printing ABS. Indeed, ABS need a constant temperature to maintain layers adhesion. In a nutshell, the reasons why you would like to build an enclosure : 
  • Keep the desk neat;
  • Keep the printer's elements away from (most of the) dust;
  • Ability to print ABS;
  • Reduce noise;
  • Prevent smells to spread in the room (depending what you are printing...)
However, if you are printing at high temp, you should consider removing any electronic from the enclosure itself. Motherboard, Raspberry Pi, Camera, .... This is another work and I'm not ready to do it - this is not the purpose of this post !

Ready to put everything together

When all parts have been printed, you have something similar to this :


Note : I changed my mind for the PSU mount and filament spool holder. So don't be shocked if you do not have the exact same pieces !

1) Unbox the Lack table and start to build it

Simply follow the instructions. There is nothing particular with this first table. This is the bottom one so this is identical to the original design proposed by Ikea.


When the table is assembled (5 minutes later), this is time to attach the feet of the upper table. I glued them. I was initially thinking at using screws but I was afraid to reach the original feet screws so I changed my mind and go the glue way. I used polymer glue to be sure it will remain in place.


Be sure to glue them at the right place. The cable hole for the PSU upper right corner and the hinges inserts inside facing.

After 1h, I was convinced this was a good choice. Next !

2) LED Strip

Take the second table and let's add the LED strip on the bottom side of it. I'm using Ikea LEDBERG, you are free to use any other LED strip that you want. I think the LEDBERG might not be bright enough, I'll see with the usage. First, I need to do some soldering to have all parts connected together. By default, LEDBERG are attached in a row and I need them 90° to follow the table's corners.


 


As you have probably notice, I'm not a soldering master, but at least it works ! This is low voltage so I'm not too scared ;) 
Talking about safe side, I also attached the smoke detector.

3) Legs assembly

First, we need to screw the upper feet block. The one with the cable hole is back right, so back left when the table is upside-down. The upper feet will use the original table top holes. Easier for alignment and this is pre-drilled so will be perfectly assembled. For this operation we need screws. I choose 6x50 for the table top and 5x20 for the legs :

 


Top corners


Bottom corners attached to the leg


I pre-drilled the legs to avoid any damages using a small wood or metal head :

For the hinges, pay attention : do not invert upper and bottom hinges ! If you are mixing them, you won't be able to open/close the doors.


Repeat this operation on all legs, your upper table is ready !
  

4) The filament feeding mechanism

It was hard to decide which version to choose, there are a lot of options. I finally decided to the Prusa adjustable version and I added a filament filter (to remove dust before entering into the printer's nozzle). The below design was ok but not great, indeed the spool could fall down the wheel. To solve this problem, I have changed the original wheel by this ball bearing-based axes.


With the spool mounted

 

I also added a filter since my printer is located in my basement and this is quite dusty there, so don't want to send dust to the nozzle.


There are some spikes in the middle to keep foam / sponge / cotton wool whatever you like. This is how the filament get cleaned before entering the enclosure.

Next, just slide the filter compartment into the filament tube.

5) Plexiglass panels

The easiest way to achieve this step is to order "cut-on-demand" panels. In US, it looks like Queen City Polymers is a famous one. Since I'm located in Belgium I'm using a local one called Plaque Plastique, but I'm sure Google will help you to find one close to you to shrink down the bill. Printer aside, this is the most expensive section of this build ! Pay attention to the size, you are gettings exactly what you order !

What we need is : 
  • 3x lateral partitions : 440 mm (width) x 525 mm (length) x 3 mm (thick)
  • 2 x doors : 220 mm (width) x 525 mm (length) x 3 mm (thick)
I got mine the day after ordering YES!! Very efficient automated cutting chain ! It cost me about 60 USD / 55 EUR. 


I was thinking at glueing them, but after installation I realized that it will be better if they are still removable. And the good news is : there is actually no need to glue them since they are fitting perfectly. There are some gaps on the sides, but I think this is ok for me. If you do not like any gaps, take measurements before ordering the cuts.

When inserting the panels, you can partially remove the protective film so the entire build remain secured while you are building it. When fully completed, you can remove the films and then woaw effect ;)



6) Attaching the doors handles

Remember those magnets ? This is the right time to glue them on the handles ! I used this type of glue, but any glue that fits plastic and metal is ok.


At this point, a big warning message : check twice before gluing the magnets, if they are on the wrong side, the doors will never close ;) So, again check twice even thrice !

The magnets inside the door stopper :


The magnets inside the door handles


7) Moving the PSU (Power Supply Unit) outside of the enclosure

If you simply place the printer as it is in the enclosure and start using it, the temperature inside will drastically increase. Not sure the PSU will support the heat and if it does, it will reduce his life span. So, this is highly recommended to move it outside. This is why we have printed specific hanging parts.

We need to extend the power cable otherwise it won't be long enough when the PSU is moved. As you know I'm not soldering master, so I just ordered cable extensions from ebay. Easily removable in case of, it only got advantages so why bother ? ;) You will see that the 30 cm extension cable is EXACTLY what you are looking for!



8) Mounting the PSU

I've found many PSU support on thingiverse and honestly, finding the right one was not easy ! So, to be clear, my PSU is a MeanWell LRS-350-24. And it does not seem to be common on PSU support on Thingiverse, so I had to combine one design with a remix from another guy. By the way, big thanks to Neil Norton for his help ! You can identify your PSU when removing the black plastic cover.

 

Everything is fitting perfectly at the bottom of the Lack !




I'm glad about the cable. There is a little spacer to let it go outside of the PSU and it is perfectly fitting the extension without any excess. When you want to remove the top Lack, just unplug the cable from the extension and you are good to go !

9) Adding the thermal sensor

This is optional of course, but always nice to see the temperature inside the enclosure. With a nozzle temp or 215°C and a bed temp of 75°C, it seem to cap at 30°C inside the enclosure, not bad.

I designed a specific housing for the display to have something nice and custom. You just need 2 little screws and drill a hole in the top table of the enclosure to place the sensor at the desire place.




This idea is to let the sensor falling down from the top and keep just enough cable, all the remaining cable is packed into the housing to have something clean.


The sensor is not as accurate as a real scientific one but for the price this is unbeatable ;)

10) All done !

And there we go ! The work is completed and ready to print for hours and hours ;)






I think this is a beautiful enclosure, thanks to all the people involved in this original design. It couldn't be more practical and nice !

More to come ...

Comments

  1. Looks good. Is PLA suitable for printing the parts?

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    1. Yes, all is printed in PLA. I actually forgot to mention it ! I don't see why PLA would not fit this, the maximum internal temp so far was 32°C. PLA is cheap and easy to print. I'm sure PETG will also work fine !

      Delete
  2. Would this enclosure fit the ender 3 pro?

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    1. If you read the title, you will notice this is actually the whole purpose of this post .... Of course, my Ender 3 Pro perfectly fits this enclosure...

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  3. Looks great, thanks for the tutorial! One question, does this enclosure provide enough space for the y-axis to move freely to its fullest extent without interfering with the print bed or the bed heater power cable hitting the front or back?

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    Replies
    1. Hi Ricky, yes it does. If you place it right in the middle, you have plenty of space for the Y axis. If you are a bit ingenious, you can also make sure the printer is as much possible at the front, so when the print is completed, it will open the doors to help cooling down more quickly ;)

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  4. Quick note to anyone looking to build this: The LACK tables in the US as of August 2020 have either been updated or are designed differently than the one in the post and the screws recommended by the author won't thread into the pre-drilled holes as they are too skinny.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Ryloguy, thanks for sharing this, I was not aware. I've been to Ikea today and I saw the Lacks. They seem to be the same as the one I used for this build.

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    2. Did you ever find the right dimension screws?

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    3. Same for me.
      Purchased the Lack Table in the UK November 2020 Screws are too skinny.

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    4. Hi future American/UK builders:

      Use #14x2" Screws for putting the top corners into the table bed, and use #12x3/4" screws for putting the bottom corners into the leg

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    5. I tried this with #12 screws and they are too big. OP uses 5x20 which equates to roughly #10x3/4 in screw. If you use #12, it will crack the corners. I now have to reprint all of them. If you can find pan heads then use those. Wood screws that flare out don’t do the plastic very well because I had it crack almost every time. Flat bottom (pan head) is definitely better.

      Delete
  5. hallo,

    ik zou deze ook willen printen nu welke infill gebruik je? en print ik de top corners met supports of hoe print ik deze zodat ze makkelijk bruikbaar zijn?

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    Replies
    1. Hi @cookieke, I used Google translate for this one ;) I use 15% infill in my print and I did not used any support at all. You could use some raft or brim to improve stickiness on the bed if you have adhesion issue otherwise, this is very easy print.

      Delete
  6. It would have been way more helpful, if You've provided some links to items - with english text! The french doesn't do much help...

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    Replies
    1. Hi there, thanks for your comment. Although these days, it is very easy to translate rom any language to any language, I took your comment into consideration and I have change the links to English-based websites. I hope this helps.

      Delete
  7. Well laid out and easy to follow. Question. Assuming top corners are the same as the bottom corners? (You referenced the "bottom_corners.stl" for both)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Joe, well spotted, actually there are not ! I just updated the links related to the corners !

      Delete
  8. Hi, Will this fit the ender 3 v2? thanks

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    Replies
    1. Hi Tom, I don't know the Ender 3 v2 dimensions but I have good confidence it will fit in !

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    2. The ender 3 v2 definitely fits, but note that V2 doesn't have the same power plugs as the pro so that cable extension won't work

      Delete
  9. Just a heads up the door handles you link don't fit the magnets that you have linked.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. not really.. it's like 2mm off.. I've just cut the top part of the parts.. they hang above the part but that's fine.

      Delete
    2. Weird, I don't have that problem .... But thanks for sharing your experience !

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    3. Same, the door handles I printed from the link are smaller and the magnets do not fit.

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    4. Hi,

      You need 20mmX6mmX2mm magnets, on American Amazon you can easily get 20mmX5mmX2mm, I assume the same is true elsewhere as that is a common size

      Delete
  10. Replies
    1. I got use to the move ;)
      Seriously, it seems more complex than what it is really ....

      Delete
  11. My plan is to build the exact same enclosure based on your plan! My first printer (Ender 3) is on it's way and it will have a Trainglab DDE. Do you think the fillament feeding system as suggested would work? Furthermore I found that there are two types of 608 bearings: 608zz and 608 2rs. I have no clue what the difference would be between the two :-). What you mind sharing what you've ordered?

    Thanks for the elaborate building plan!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Bart !

      Honestly, I don't know the difference. I Googled a bit and apparently, you can use any of the 608 family. The most important thing in the diameter. I have used the ZZ one ordered here : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07S3SZZST/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

      I'm glad you like the post ;)

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    2. A "zz" bearing just means it is sealed on each side with a metal cover, while the "2rs" or "rs" are rubber seals. The bearings themselves are identical in size and used interchangeably.

      Delete
  12. Magents linked are 20mm x 10mm x 2mm. The openings in the printed door handles are 20mm x 6mm x 2mm.

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  13. Something you could do to make the lighting easier is to use a led band instead of rigid leds. You can then bend it instead of soldering (except from the power chord).

    I wanted something funny so I bought RGB leds and realized that soldering that was completely crazy :P... But if you use RGB leds, the reciever will probably be on the power plug so it might be difficult to change it to power everything solely with the ender 3 PSU

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    Replies
    1. You are damn right ! But I thought that was more durable with that one ... :)

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  14. não teria perigo de superaquecer alguma peça?

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    1. The highest temp I got using the enclosure was 40°C inside the enclosure ... so I think this is more than ok ;)

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  15. Great post, Which you have shared here. Your article is very informative and nicely describes the process . Thank you so much. roxtec tools

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  16. Really great guide. It's exactly what I needed, nothing more, nothing less. I might even call it perfect.

    ReplyDelete
  17. Anyone else had trouble with hinges all other parts printed fine , but one of the dam hinges lifts every time same hinge no matter where I place em .. other 3 are fine ..failed 5 times now & dunno what else to try

    ReplyDelete
  18. Really nice enclosure, I'm planning to build it with a third Lack and move the electronics either below or above the 3D-printer.
    Would it be possible to share the CAD files or drawings with measurements?

    FYI: Maybe it's just me, but it looks like the links in the thingeverse page don't work correctly. When I'm clicking on any I getting redirected to Ikea Lack.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi M.C. Epsilon, always great to get some positive return ;) I will have a look at the links, you are apparently not the only one having this issue.

      Delete
  19. Hi Frederic

    Greetings from Denmark!

    I'm in the progress of creating this myself, and was about to create the 3d printed parts from this awesome setup, then found a simple and quick question. Could you please add the original thingiverse id/link to :
    "Bottom corners : https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/ed/b0/90/29/e8/bottom_corners.stl" and
    "Top corners : https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/65/f9/d9/7d/e8/top_corners.stl"
    Those two STL's contains all of the four required objects, each. Thats a day and a half of printing for each of those STL's.. waaay too much in one go, at least for me personally. Then I can divide the prints into more... manageable runs..

    Thanks in advance!

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    Replies
    1. I used Tinkercad to create boxes as "Holes" and split them up into each leg pieces so that I can print one at time.

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    2. I used Mesh Tools Plug-in in Cura to separate the things into submeshes. I really only did this because the bottom feet as kind of thin and didn’t use hairspray the first time. So if anyone is reading this, use hairspray. A few of these prints can take more than a day to print in one go. Probably 3-4 days total depending on infill and if you print things like the temperature case and move your power supply out.

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    3. I also used Tinkercad to split them up.

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  20. NM.. just discovered mesh tools in Cura marketplace.. :-D

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  21. Printing all the parts takes around 30 hours, and about 350-400g of filament (depends on infill).

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Levi, you are probably right. For the infill no need to make it too high, none of the parts require to be too strong, there are not much constraints on them. Between 15 to 30% no problem ;)

      Delete
  22. This is great, just assembling it but I've found the gap between the hinges is a little too small and the door panels fall out when you open them. I'm just printing some 6mm washers to fix that to go under the bottom hinges.

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    Replies
    1. Yes, apply a drop of glue and this is perfect ;) I have the same issue ... not to worry too much about it. But ok the washer way is a good way too ;)

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    2. Ah thanks, I hadn't thought of using glue, I guess a thin sheet of something would work as well

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    3. Plucker, would you mind sharing the washer stl you are using?

      Delete
  23. Can you also share the filament guide link you are using on your extruder?

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    Replies
    1. Hi ! Sure, this is the one : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3308026. Not an easy print, I had to do it 4 or 5 times ... But I must admit this was my early days in the 3D printing world ;)

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    2. Thank you! this one looks different than in the photos in your article? The one I am looking at has bearings that guide the filament before the extruder?

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    3. Oh sorry, that one is a custom one ... You can find it here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4561989 you can find the original in the remix section.

      Delete
  24. I am confused. When you put the legs into the bottom feet, then they just sit there, right? And then do you not use the large screw to attach the legs to the top ? It seems like the top would move. What am I missing ?

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    Replies
    1. Hi Brian, you are not missing anything. They indeed just stack together without any other fixing mechanism. But, don't worry, it is not going to fall or anything, they are a kind of male/female stacking that prevent any falling. You can give it a try without any fear ;) Let me know !

      Delete
  25. This may be a silly question but is it necessary to have 2 lack tables? I have a work surface in my classroom where I would like to build my enclosure and was hoping to just have 1 lack sitting on top.
    Also, if the maximum temperature you've experienced inside the enclosure is 34 degrees is it needed to move the power supply outside?
    Thanks,

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    Replies
    1. Hi Ali, thanks for your question. So, firstly, about having 2 lack tables I would say yes because you need to extend the lack legs (they are too short to fit the Ender) and the leg extensions are holding the hinges and the support for the plexi sides.

      Next, about the internal temperature, 34°C inside the enclosure is when printing PLA. As soon as you start to print something else like PETG or ABS is will jump much higher. Moving the power supply outside is not a big work. I hope this is answering your questions.

      Delete
    2. Actually one lack table is all thats needed but you need all the parts still. You will have to mount the bottom to the work surface permanently so you need to measure it out and modify the PSU mount so its hanging from both front and rear hangars under the table and not just top and side to leg. Ive seen setups of this on a single design table where the base is another ikea workstation table. So its really about if you want to make the mount permanent or where you can move easily later. you can even chop the legs on the lower lack table like prusa does so it holds the PSU and no space under it.

      Personally I have a tower of 3 tables for a work station where I use the lower for containers with tools and for the spools. For the top i feed from a esun dryer box thats stable and keeps the filament clean and properly dried going into the enclosure.

      Delete
  26. I had to reprint the corners at 50% and Grid infill for ultimate strength. I also had to add new holes to bottom of legs so I can attach bottom corners. With the additional infill, the screw that goes in the center of the leg now has additional plastic by which to bite into. It doesn’t say how to insert the plexiglass so you might want a little play on the bottom corners so you can insert the extruded acrylic. I used TAPP Plastics in the US and ordered the exact dimensions listed here. There is a small gap on each side when you attach the acrylic. It did not seem to have an effect though. My goal is to keep things tidy (no dust ) and trap most of the heat as well as add the extra lights because I feel like my room doesn’t apply enough light. Anyways, other than the cracked corners I have to reprint, it does take a number of days to wait and order stuff then get it all printed. Especially if you work or don’t time your prints right (eg end over night or while at work)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Brian, you are correct, there are little gaps between the plastic panels and the edge of the table/legs ... In my case this is not an issue, if you are looking at something sealed or dust-proof, you need to adjust the size to be as accurate as possible. in my case, this is not a problem. My printer is in a dusty basement, and it does not hurt at all. It all depends on your environment and what you are aiming at. I did not encountered the issue you are mentioning about cracking the prints. Sorry about that.

      Delete
  27. I have a question: could the motherboard have problems with the temperature?

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    Replies
    1. Hi Daiv, this is a very valid question. I think if you are printing ABS all time, it could be an issue. So far I'm more a PLA man and I hardly print ABS so, this is not an issue for me. I think you'de better monitor the temp and see if it's ok for you.

      Delete
  28. Hi! Thanks so much for this guide! It is exactly what I was looking for! I am thinking of building this enclosure for my Anycubic Mono X resin printer. Can you tell me the interior height of the enclosure? I am hoping it will fit the Mono X which is 19" tall

    I would hopefully install a sliding drawer like this to make accessing the printer even easier: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FZ4MDKR/?coliid=I3KG095DEFPKWS&colid=2X0AJMVGL7YG0&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Alex, sorry for the late answer, I just checked.

      The base of the enclusure is a square 52 cm x 52 cm usable. The usable height is 54 cm. In imperial I think it is 20.4 inch x 20.4 inch with a 21 inch height.

      I hope that helps ;)

      Delete
    2. Hi Frederic! Your answer was super fast, thanks! 54 cm/21 inches is almost perfect. I am super new to 3D printing, so I have a lot to learn. What program do you use to edit models? I was thinking about learning Fusion 360 incase I need to add a bit of height on the legs to accommodate the pull our drawer.

      Thanks again!

      Delete
    3. It all depends about your capabilities with the software, I’ve tried Fusion but I personally have better results with Tinkercad… this an easy to use web based CAD developed by auto desk…. Have fun and I’m glad you are happy with the post !

      Delete
  29. Do you know what voltage the led strips actually use?
    I'm wondering if I could power them from the printers PSU through a relay controlled by OctoPi?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Jurgen,
      Yes, this is totally doable. I must admit I was lazy and I have a separate 220v converter to 12v (it was sold like that).
      BUT ! I'm powering up it remotely using OctoPi and PSU Control ;)

      Delete
    2. I'm getting there ...
      I already used a 2nd power line from the PSU to the Octopi control box (first goes to the printer) and it powers the lights (24v), fans (12v) and Rpi (5v) which in turn powers 2 DS18B20s (one in the enclosure, and one in the box).
      Just need design a proper way to relocate the PSU to under the enclosure, and a way to read the RPM from the fans ...

      Delete
    3. I see, but as you have probably noticed, I'm using a separate power supply for LEDs.... I was lazy ;)

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    4. Nothing wrong with that ... I was on a roll, and I like thinkering with electronics.
      I just think it looks cleaner this way ....

      Delete
  30. Curious how you routed your LED power cable out of the enclosure?

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    Replies
    1. Easy, there is a gap between the plastic sheets and the enclosure ;) Find your way there, as much elegant as possible.

      Delete
    2. Or split up the botton corners blocks into separate block (and not all 4 at once) and print 2 copies of the one with the cable guide in it ...
      You might even use the mirror function in Cura ...

      Delete
    3. Sure, I will see if I can add a picture of my cable getting out from the enclosure....

      Delete
  31. Hi there so I was wondering what material to get for the plexiglass the site you sent for the US gives so many different materials to choose from I would need to know which is the best. And possibly also add that in the description of when buying it as well to help future people looking to build this. I would also like to know would this fit the Anycubic Mega SE? I plan on printing in ABS when needed but PLA for most everything else so that you can help me choose the best material for the plexiglass.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Orion,

      Thanks for your comment. I would say, the material actually does not matter. If I were you, I would select the cheapest. We are not at the industrial level and the difference between plastic sheets really does not impact anything at this level. As soon as you have the right thickness and X x Y size (and transparent) you should be fine.
      About Anycubic, I have no idea, so I cannot comment on that. I hope you will find your happiness with this build.
      I have already printed ABS, for fun, and it works just fine.

      Delete
    2. Ok cool. What are the inside dimensions that might help me to be able to figure that part out. Looking in the last picture you have some type of filament guide do you have the STL for that it looks neat.

      Delete
    3. If you look above in the comments, there are the various dimensions in both cm and inch.

      "The base of the enclosure is a square 52 cm x 52 cm usable. The usable height is 54 cm. In imperial I think it is 20.4 inch x 20.4 inch with a 21 inch height."

      Delete
  32. I know this is an old post, but one issue that jumps out at me is that by moving the power supply off of the frame you have insulated the machine from any grounding. Running a ground wire from the power supply to the frame would resolve this issue.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi there, very old post indeed, but still having more than 400 visits a day ;) And still very valid. You comment is a good one too ! I never thought about it ! I will rather soon add a cable for grounding. Thanks !

      Delete

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